Most of the jewellery we see damaged at the counter was not damaged by wearing it. It was damaged by cleaning it. The method that is perfect for one piece can ruin another, and the difference is almost always the stone. Here is how to match the approach to the piece in your hand.
First, the pieces that should never see water
Kundan, polki and jadau jewellery should never be cleaned with liquid. These pieces are built over a core of lac, and water seeps behind the stones and loosens it. A soft, dry cloth after each wearing is the entire routine. Store kundan and jadau pieces flat, each in its own compartment, in a dry airtight box — and put your perfume on before the jewel, not after.
The same rule applies to strung pieces: pearls and bead strands are often held on silk thread, and soaking weakens it.
Plain gold with no stones
- Warm (not hot) water with one drop of mild dish soap.
- A soft baby toothbrush, worked gently into the crevices and behind the design.
- Rinse and pat completely dry with a soft, lint-free cloth before putting it away.
This is safe for plain gold chains, bangles and rings. Avoid toothpaste and baking soda: both are abrasive and will dull a polished surface over time.
Diamonds and hard stones
Diamonds, rubies, sapphires and most garnets tolerate the same soap-and-soft-brush routine, and set diamonds can go in an ultrasonic cleaner — but only if the stone is not fracture-filled and the piece has no glued or antique components. If you do not know the treatment history of a stone, skip the ultrasonic and use the brush.
What must never go in an ultrasonic cleaner
- Organic gems — pearls, coral, amber, shell cameos and ivory are porous and can be damaged by both the heat and the cleaning solutions.
- Treated stones — emeralds are commonly filled with oil or resin, and some diamonds are fracture-filled with a glass-like substance. The vibration and the chemicals can remove the treatment.
- Soft or heat-sensitive stones — opal, tanzanite, turquoise, moonstone, sunstone, lapis lazuli, malachite, topaz and zircon should be cleaned by hand only.
- Antique, plated or glued pieces — including anything with enamel work or paste-set stones.
Silver
Tarnish on silver is normal — it is sulphur in the air, not a flaw. A silver polishing cloth handles most of it. For heavier tarnish, a gentle silver dip used strictly to the instructions, then a rinse and a full dry. Do not use abrasive polishes on antiqued or oxidised finishes: you will take the finish off along with the tarnish.
Everyday habits that do more than any cleaning
- Jewellery comes off first: before swimming, before the gym, before washing dishes, before bed.
- Chlorine attacks gold alloys and can damage stones, so pools and hot tubs are hard on jewellery.
- Hand sanitiser, perfume, hairspray and sunscreen dull pearls and leave films on stones.
- Store each piece separately. Pieces that rattle against each other in one box scratch each other.
- Hang chains rather than coiling them, and fasten the clasp so it cannot tangle.
- Check prongs a few times a year. A loose stone is a five-minute fix now and an expensive one later.
If a stone feels loose, or a piece needs re-polishing, bring it in rather than reaching for a tool. Every purchase from us carries free lifetime jewellery cleaning, and we will check the settings while it is on the bench.